DIY Winter Adventure: Tips for First Time Ice Climbers

Had enough of being trapped indoors this winter? Get outside with our DIY Winter Adventure series.

Ice climbing—the odd offshoot of mountaineering that specializes in ascending ribbons of frozen water—is in many ways an ultimate expression of human imagination and determination. It is a true extension of the famed “because it’s there” mentality that has driven the history’s greatest mountaineers and explorers. And, in spite of its improbable objective and collection of sharp and specialized equipment, it is surprisingly friendly to the beginner.

Those preparing for their first endeavor onto the ice, however, should keep a few things in mind to ensure the trip is as enjoyable as possible.

Essential Equipment

Technical ice climbing—the steep kind requiring protection from a rope—demands a full set of specialized equipment. A pair of short ice axes, stiff leather or plastic boots, a pair of crampons, and a climbing helmet are all essential additions to the basic rock climbing kit. These tools, however, can be easily rented—likely from the guide service or school leading a trip for first-timers.

More important, really, is the selection of personal gear. Dressing in layers is standard practice for any outdoor activity but it is particularly important for ice climbing. The day will consist of periods of intense activity—like struggling up a vertical ice face—followed by long stretches of relative inactivity when climbers are belaying or waiting for their turn to get moving. To deal with this, ice climbers typically dress in a light “action suit” that is not nearly warm enough to wear while standing but perfect during climbing. Once they have finished a climb they quickly don a heavy insulated jacket to trap all that body heat.

The ability to quickly strip down and layer up is key to regulating body temperature throughout the day.

Dealing With the Cold

The simple reality of most ice climbing trips is that they take place in the cold. This means that climbers must simply accept that at some points they will be cold to the point of mild discomfort. Keeping this discomfort only mild and more, however, is also important.

Dressing properly is the first step. Eating properly is the second. Ice climbing requires a lot calories—mostly the kind that active people typically avoid. In the cold, sugar and fats are our friends. Filling jacket pockets with “fun size” candy bars is an excellent way to keep these calories accessible and at the top of mind. A hot drink in a thermos is also very helpful. Try hot chocolate with the addition of a tablespoon of butter. It might not be appetizing at home, but after a few hours on the ice it is amazing.

Pro-Tips for First Timers

To complete the steepest, longest, most difficult ice flows, professional climbers have developed many techniques to push the limits of their ability. These techniques are not necessary for first timers, but they can makes the experience more comfortable and enjoyable. Some things to try:

Relax Your Grip: It is easier said than done, but relaxing the grip on the shaft of the ice axes uses significantly less energy. It also helps keep blood flowing to the fingers, keeping them warm. When you’re high on a face, feeling tired and a little insecure, it’s hard to loosen your grip, but taking a deep breath and unclenching a bit could mean the difference from making it to the top and stopping halfway.

Drop Your Hands: Spend a whole climb with your hands above your head and the blood will quickly drain out of your hands—leaving them cold and weak. Fortunately, there is an easy solution: Drop your hands below your waist. Instead of focusing on only moving up, use one secure hand to briefly give the other a rest.

Hook Instead of Swing: One of the interesting things about ice climbing is that each year it forms slightly differently. And it’s a good thing: Over the course of a season, all that swinging and hacking leaves its mark. Climbers on popular routes can use this to their advantage by “hooking” the holes made by previous ascents. This can help on brittle ice and certainly saves a lot of energy.

Think About Those Feet: Just like with rock climbing, the placement of your feet while ice climbing is the most important consideration. Its easy to focus on swinging those sharp axes but without good feet, you’ll never make it up a climb—steep or otherwise.

As wild as it seems, ice climbing can be a very fun and beginner-friendly way to enjoy the outdoors in winter. Come on, the ice is nice, really.

jfdervin/Creative Commons
jfdervin/Creative Commons