Today, the women are busily trimming every unnecessary fraction-of-an-ounce from their climbing packs. Extra buckles and straps are removed; excess carabiners, books and journals are discarded; tags are cut off clothing; essential medicines are removed from their bottles and placed in baggies; Snickers are replaced by Milky Ways (to get rid of the weight of the peanuts). Jody has even poured the cremated remains of her friend Rod from their heavy jade container into a paper envelope. Jody reasons that if this weight-saving measure improves her chances of reaching the summit where his ashes will be released, Rod wouldn't mind.
What are the bare essentials for six days on the world's tallest mountain? Heavy mittens, a warm hat, a change of socks, an extra layer of long underwear, a Gore-Tex shell, a down suit, a toothbrush and a quarter roll of toilet paper.
Each climber must keep her backpack weight to a maximum of 20 pounds, because to that will be added an oxygen bottle, mask and regulator (17 pounds), and two liters of water (4.4 pounds). Those 40-plus pounds could feel more like 100 pounds above 26,000 feet.
Each guide has an extra 10 pounds of emergency and group gear in his or her pack, including first-aid kits, radios, batteries, an extra regulator, pulleys for crevasse rescue, ice screws, hammers and pickets.
Lisa Rust intends to leave most of it at Camp 4 before heading for the summit. "I'm in the same boat as these climbers," says Lisa. "I only weigh 125 pounds." But her efforts will allow the women's team to climb lighter and possibly higher. "That's what guiding is all about," says one of the few women ever to guide on this mountain.
A few extra grams of sentiment are allowed. Kim has placed a pewter guardian angel — given by friends at a going away party — in a pocket, along with a picture given by the monk at Pangboche and a photograph of her family and fiance.
She has spent the last 12 years doggedly pursuing mountain sports, a passion that started by reading a compilation of climbing stories in a book called Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills after college. She became a bona fide ski bum in Summit County, Colo., until deciding to pursue nursing school.
"After a while, skiing every day didn't hold the same appeal," she explains. "I felt like I've got to do something else that is going to provide me with a living and be rewarding but still allow time to enjoy the outdoors. Nursing is intense and fast paced. I like things where you have to be accountable, and climbing is also like that."
Kim has a strong head, but on this guided climb she has to put her trust in other people to make decisions, carry extra protection and fix the route. That's not easy for someone who prefers to be self-sufficient. It was a big decision not to put that extra ice screw anchor and sling on her harness. "I want to be ready if part of the route is not fixed or I come to a broken rope. All sorts of things can fall apart," she says. "You always have to think clearly and cautiously, but sometimes you just have to have faith."
She excels in demanding individual sports like skiing, mountain bike racing and ultra marathons, so this team experience has been a lesson in patience. But she says the benefits offset the challenges.
"The cheerleading and encouragement we get from each other give me the emotional and spiritual support I need to do this," Kim says. "Climbing with guys is different. They may want to cheer, but they tend to hold it in. It's not macho to be cheering for your partner."
Kim says this trip is relatively cushy, with the Sherpa team taking hours of work off her hands and someone else making all the decisions. If all the variables fall into place, Kim is confident that she has a good shot at the summit. Currently, the variables look good. The five-day forecast calls for winds to stay below 35 mph with possible moisture later in the week.
"So far the forecasts we've received have been reasonably accurate with weather trends," says expedition coordinator Eric Simonson. "Each day we get closer, the forecast should be more accurate."
It's still a shot in the dark. Base camp has been hot and windless for two days. Who knows what the team will run into above? They plan to climb to 19,500 feet Tuesday, where they will spend the night at Camp 1. On Wednesday they'll climb to 21,300 feet, and spend the night at Camp 2. On Thursday they'll ascend the Lhotse Face to 24,000 feet and sleep at Camp 3 with the help of supplemental oxygen.
Then, while wearing oxygen masks, on Friday they plan to climb to 26,000 feet and Camp 4, higher than they've ever been. That would leave time to sleep at Camp 4, but only until about 10 p.m. on Friday. Then they'll emerge from their tents in the dark and begin what could be an 18-hour climb-and-descend to the summit at 29,028 feet.
Under this best-case scenario, the climbers could reach the summit on Saturday. But the summit bid has already been delayed twice, and the only thing certain is that it will be a grueling week.
The Sherpas burn juniper each evening on our base camp stupa. We joined them this evening to say a prayer, intentions lifted on smoke and prayer flags to the mountain goddess. May she hear us well. It's the moment we've been waiting for.