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Everest: Beyond the Limit

 

Judgment Day

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Phurba Tashi and David Tait

Betsy Huelskamp's summit dreams are left hanging by a thread after Russell's guides turn her around just below the Death Zone. The team members are at 24,500 feet – higher than anywhere outside the Himalayas – but the sun is beating down and it's incredibly hot. Even the fittest climbers are struggling with dehydration and exhaustion as they try to reach Camp 2.

"It was like walking in a sauna and wearing a down suit, too," admits Danish triathlete  Mogens Jensen. Only one climber makes Russell's deadline and there are serious questions about who'll be allowed to try for the summit.

Betsy knows she's in trouble but remains determined: "I never give up; I just don't know how," she says. But others take a harder view. British financier David Tait argues that if Russ sends Betsy up, "he's asking for a dead person."

The team is in need of rest and recuperation at Base Camp where the air is thicker and their appetites should return, but they're all aware their fate will shortly be decided by Russell and his guides. It's crunch time for Mogens Jensen, Tim Medvetz and Betsy Huelskamp. Can Russell let any of them go? "It's my challenge to try and let them go as far as they can without actually killing themselves," he says.

David Tait's plans for a world record double traverse with "super Sherpa" Phurba Tashi get off to a difficult start when Russell is forced to gamble on a 12-day weather forecast. Weather patterns dictate they must leave earlier than planned and the enormity of what he’s trying to achieve hits David hard as he leaves Base Camp for the summit.

Meanwhile, Russell calls a meeting with the climbers to let them know who will be allowed to go for the top. Russ tells Tim, "Get your s**t together man," and orders him to stop being so arrogant. Mogens, who is determined to summit without bottled oxygen, faces some hard truths when Russell tells him: "I don't think you can make it without oxygen."

Then, Russell makes a tough and final decision. For Betsy, the dream is over.

PHOTO: Phurba Tashi (left) and David Tait (seated) talk to each other at ABC (Advanced Base Camp) before setting out for the double traverse.

 
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