Sept. 9, 2003
LONDOLOZI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE, Mpumalanga Province, South Africa — I couldn't see the Southern Cross last night because of storm clouds. When they let loose, the savanna enjoyed its first good gulp of rain in a long time. Hail pelted the acacia and torchwood trees. As a result, there's an oh-so-subtle green flush today to the tawny gray landscape.

Some who visit here speak of the savanna's restorative powers. Others say they inexplicably long for this thorny place known as the bush, its serenity and natural rhythms beckoning them back time and again.

Some like the wine list at Londolozi and the fact that a crystal ashtray materializes when the cigars come out after a meal of lamb shanks and roasted pumpkin wedges.

Me, I enjoy being awakened by the distinctive sawing-wood sound of a leopard calling from across the Sand River. I'm also partial to the geckos tumbling from the thatched ceiling of my bathroom where, by the way, every fragrant chunk of glycerin soap — those at my tub, two sinks and showers (indoor and out) — are prettily wrapped with grass bows. And it doesn't hurt that a silver pot of tea is delivered to my door at 5:30 a.m. so I can sip while I dress for the game drive.

Still, I'm willing to wager a fistful of rand that, no matter our proclivities, each and every guest came here to see the megafauna — at least those known as the "Big Five." We come for the lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. (Throw in some hippos, crocs, kudu and giraffe, and we're happy beyond measure.)

I came to South Africa specifically to see tigers, which are not indigenous to Africa and are not kept at this game reserve. This first stop — Londolozi Private Game Reserve — is operated by the people who are trying an experiment with a pair of zoo-born tigers, seeing if they can learn to live again in the wild.