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Ice Climbing Gear

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Ice Climbing Photo

ice climbing

Theresa Timmins (L) helps to prepare Adam Kuperman for a climb up the side of ice-covered grain silos February 18, 2007 in Cedar Falls, Iowa.

 
Inside this article:
1. Introduction to Ice Climbing
2. Ice Climbing Gear
3. Ice Climbing Techniques
4. Ice Climbing Safety
5. Indoor Ice Climbing

Ice climbing gear is very different than rock climbing gear. Ice climbing not only requires different clothing in order to combat the cold climate, but it also involves the use of completely different climbing tools. Of course, many of the same devices used for securing climbers to rock walls are used on ice walls as well, but even those securing devices differ regarding the manner in which they are secured to the climbing face.

One of the most important distinctions in climbing gear is the type of crampons worn by ice climbers. Crampons are like exaggerated metal cleats that attach to climbers’ boots. Keeping crampons sharp is of the utmost importance as maintaining footing is integral to a climber’s safety. Fruit boots, which are any kind of boot or shoe with a crampon bolted through the sole, are another option for ice climbers. Fruit boots tend to be lighter and allow for more precision since the boot and crampon are essentially one unit. Aside from deciding between crampons and Fruit boots, ice climbers also have to decide what style of crampon best suits their needs, mono-point or dual-point. Mono-points tend to be more popular for mixed climbing, but they can also be well-utilized on technical ice climbs when ice penetration is an important factor. Dual-points give the climber more stability but less ice penetration. So, the decision between mono- and dual-point crampons is an important one that hinges upon the type of terrain and the personal preference of the ice climber.

Another important aspect of ice climbing gear is the type of ice pick used. The original ice picks were versatile, straight-shafted picks that could be used on both mountaineering-style and waterfall ice climbs. As ice climbing’s popularity grew, climbers became more willing to purchase specialized tools for the various types of ice climbing.

David Tait describes his treacherous climb down the south side of Everest and his decision to abandon his double traverse attempt. http://link.brightcove.com/services/link/bcpid1348279696http://www.brightcove.com/channel.jsp?channel=103207
Related Video: David Tait describes his treacherous ice climbing expedition down the south side of Everest and his decision to abondon his double traverse attempt.

Clearance shafts, which arc slightly from end to end, are handy because protrusions from the ice do not block the shaft. Z-handled tools, also known as leashless tools, have grips that protrude from the shaft at a different angle. Z-handled tools were originally designed for use on challenging, overhanging sections of ice, but as they became increasingly popular, their designs were adapted to suit ice climbers’ all-around needs.

Ice screws are vital to ice climbers’ safety and they need regular care and sharpening to maintain their integrity. Ice screws are basically giant screws that climbers twist into the ice for protection from falls. The lead climber twists the screws into the ice as he or she goes, then the following climber removes them. Ice screws are only as good as the ice that is holding them, so climbers have to make sure that they are anchoring their ice screws in "good ice". Ice screws are also used in conjunction with V-thread tools to create support anchors. Climbers make two v-shaped tunnels in the ice using ice screws, then loop a cord or some webbing through the v-shaped tunnels and attach a v-thread tool. V-threads are also known as Abalakov threads, named for Vitaly Abalakov, who first came up with the idea.

 
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