Ice climbing is an adventure sport that was born out of rock climbing. Climbers were forced to learn how to navigate the slippery ice faces at high altitudes in order to find their way back to the familiar feel of the rock face. As rock climbing’s popularity flourished, new tools and techniques were created, many of which focused on maneuvering over tricky patches of ice.
Ice climbing can be a relatively safe adventure sport as long as the proper precautions are taken. However, regardless of how careful climbers are or how diligently they might prepare for a climb, there are no guarantees that everything will go smoothly. Chunks of ice known as "dinner plates" can break off of ice walls, avalanches can occur, plus climbers must constantly be on the lookout for crevasses. Because of the inherent risks of ice climbing, enthusiasts must learn how to properly use their equipment, how to set up safe anchors and belays and also how to deal with common ice climbing injuries. The icy climate can also be a dangerous factor, so the importance of being prepared cannot be stressed highly enough.
Aside from understanding the nature of ice climbing environments, wearing layers, bringing extra gloves and using dry ropes, the main safety precaution that ice climbers must take is to somehow attach themselves to the ice in case of a fall. Of course, helmets should always be worn because head injuries can occur at any time during a climb. Ice climbers have the option of using running, fixed or boot belays during their climbs. Running belays involve at least two climbers moving up the slope together. The leader places ice screws along the way and clips the rope through them. The follower then removes the lowest ice screw and continues to follow the leader. At least two ice screws should be anchored in the ice at all times because neither the screws nor the ice that holds them is guaranteed to withstand the weight of a fall.
Fixed belays involve a stationary anchor that does not move with the climbers. These stationary anchors are typically made up of two ice screws, although other options are available. Ice bollards are another type of anchor that can be used by ice climbers. An ice bollard is essentially a reverse-teardrop that is formed of ice and/or snow. They are similar to bollards used for mooring boats, but are made of frozen water instead of metal. Ice bollards have to be quite large in order to support a climber’s weight.
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Experts suggest making them at least six inches high and 12-18 inches in diameter at the top. Once the shape is correct, climbers carve out a lip in the underside of the top portion. This lip helps to ensure that the rope will not slip off of the bollard. The Abalakov V-thread, a v-shaped tunnel created with ice screws, can be used instead of an ice bollard, though both take a fairly long time to set up. Because ice bollards and V-threads take longer than setting up a belay, they are used most often for rappelling. Boot belays, in which the rope is wrapped around one boot in order to create friction, are a quick and simple alternative to running and fixed belays. However, boot belays are designed more for speed and less for safety and should only be used on easy terrains.
Because avalanches, falling rocks, falling ice and crevasses are a constant threat to ice climbers, it’s very important that they keep first aid kits with their gear. Every ice climber that goes out in a pair or small group should know how to apply a tourniquet and make a splint. Recognizing and treating frostnip and frostbite are also important skills for an ice climber to have. Aside from bringing first aid kits and having basic medical knowledge, many climbers have begun to go the extra mile when it comes to safety. There are plenty of modern gadgets out there that can be extremely helpful to climbers. Handheld GPS devices are nice for climbers heading into the deep wilderness, and there are also avalanche beacons that climbers can signal to help rescue teams locate them. But regardless of recent technological advancements, a shovel can still be a climber’s best friend.